The Dneprglide transmission

Dneprglide transmissions are not really a automatic transmission, or semi-automatic. It does however have a clever way to "pull the clutch cable" when you step on the gear shifter the first part of the push, or pull, forces a short round shaft to protrude out of the rear of the transmission case right below the clutch lever on the rear of the transmission and actually push the lever without pulling the clutch cable. You might ask why bother? I have actually HAD to use it because my clutch cable broke and I didn't have a spare. When making a 90 deg turn sometimes I need to shift about halfway through and it works much better if you hold on to the bars well and just shift. Military romantics say its so you can drive and shoot, or drive with no left hand, or some say just in case the cable brakes in the worst time and place. I have some nerve damage and can't ride long without stopping and regaining the feeling in my arms so this helps the shifting when I get weak. If adjusted right, the rod pushing on the back of the transmission lever really does make it shift nicer while pulling the handlebar clutch lever. 

The first problems I had was a broken reverse gear. My fault, I forced the lever being inpatient and pushed the collar lip right off. So I took it out and ripped it down and found a couple things needing attention other than the reverse gear. One of the main input shaft roller bearings was not round! I mean the center that was pressed on the main shaft was drilled off center, it had an odd sound at idle in neutral, I found this out checking the shaft for straightness. The retainer plate that holds the kick starter return spring that is in the bell-housing was bowed way out, there is where that leak was! All the tolerances where at the upper limit, and it was missing a couple washers for the output shaft. 

So I get this fixed and put back together and drive the hell outta it! I got about 1500 kilos and it started skipping in gear and then hopping out of all gears, almost don't get home! I am getting better at getting the transmission out now! This time I find the gear shift indexer has broken its stopper, I get it fixed and  drive the hell outta it some more! 

Now it starts hopping outta 2nd gear after about 1000 kilos and I am now doughting my transmission skills! The collar that the shift fork for 1-2nd slides back and forth to actually change gears and 2nd gear on the output shaft that has failed. It looks like it wasn't sliding all the way over the engaging teeth and took about half of the edge of the teeth, I put it back together without the cover and yes it's not going all the way over, no loose spots in indexer and no wear on fork. I am thinking the indexer is a reject or just not checked good. If the new one is the same then I will check it all again.

 

While looking for the parts to fix my transmission I found "new" ones not too expensive, under $400.00 , so I ordered one from the same place I ordered the parts to repair my original. I requested one with no air filter housing (mt11-16) I got the one above that's for the 10.36 and has the old style air filter housing cast into the top. This means I need to get a new speedo cable the rest of the air filter, and the carb tubes. The seller says they will ship me all the parts at no cost, we will see. I installed this new one  so I could get my Dnepr fix, after all its been like 2 weeks since I took the trans out! 

The first gear in the new transmission is much lower than in the one I took out. I am not sure I like this as it takes more effort to start off, I had complained about 1st being to low before and now that I see how the only alternative is I think I like the original one much better! I will be fixing the original soon and will reinstall it. 

I have now fixed the original transmission and installed it. I also regeared a spare final drive that I put solo ring and pinion into, it has much faster gearing now and less torque. I will be trying it out for the next couple of weeks to see if it works well in traffic. I wanted to drive to work at the speed limit (50mph) without reving the motor so high.