This is what it looks like now.

Changing the Final Drive gear ratio

Now that I have some miles piloting a sidecar rig I feel confidant that I can safely go faster. I have installed solo gearing in the final drive to see if the motor can pull that higher speed gearing. First I replaced all the brake shoes and adjusted everything correctly. It works great! It did take some getting used to the way it took off from a stop fully loaded.

The original 8/37 gears on left and new 9/35 on right, it doesn't look much different but it sure drives different! Put these together and you get faster MPH with the same RPM of the motor.

 this swap wasn't that hard if your used to a differential type ring and pinion and know the mechanical concept of what your doing!

Doing this makes it much more drivable in traffic but I think it will not work for off roading very well. I have been changing the lube often because the gear faces had no polishing on them at all, common Russian practice of polish as it wears in process....

Great video and song, kinda says it all!

This was posted on the Soviet Steeds forum. 

http://bennetttheredonethat.bangordailynews.com/2013/10/21/how-to-fix-a-motorcycle-with-a-beer-can-and-not-hit-a-moose/

The Dneprglide transmission

Dneprglide transmissions are not really a automatic transmission, or semi-automatic. It does however have a clever way to "pull the clutch cable" when you step on the gear shifter the first part of the push, or pull, forces a short round shaft to protrude out of the rear of the transmission case right below the clutch lever on the rear of the transmission and actually push the lever without pulling the clutch cable. You might ask why bother? I have actually HAD to use it because my clutch cable broke and I didn't have a spare. When making a 90 deg turn sometimes I need to shift about halfway through and it works much better if you hold on to the bars well and just shift. Military romantics say its so you can drive and shoot, or drive with no left hand, or some say just in case the cable brakes in the worst time and place. I have some nerve damage and can't ride long without stopping and regaining the feeling in my arms so this helps the shifting when I get weak. If adjusted right, the rod pushing on the back of the transmission lever really does make it shift nicer while pulling the handlebar clutch lever. 

The first problems I had was a broken reverse gear. My fault, I forced the lever being inpatient and pushed the collar lip right off. So I took it out and ripped it down and found a couple things needing attention other than the reverse gear. One of the main input shaft roller bearings was not round! I mean the center that was pressed on the main shaft was drilled off center, it had an odd sound at idle in neutral, I found this out checking the shaft for straightness. The retainer plate that holds the kick starter return spring that is in the bell-housing was bowed way out, there is where that leak was! All the tolerances where at the upper limit, and it was missing a couple washers for the output shaft. 

So I get this fixed and put back together and drive the hell outta it! I got about 1500 kilos and it started skipping in gear and then hopping out of all gears, almost don't get home! I am getting better at getting the transmission out now! This time I find the gear shift indexer has broken its stopper, I get it fixed and  drive the hell outta it some more! 

Now it starts hopping outta 2nd gear after about 1000 kilos and I am now doughting my transmission skills! The collar that the shift fork for 1-2nd slides back and forth to actually change gears and 2nd gear on the output shaft that has failed. It looks like it wasn't sliding all the way over the engaging teeth and took about half of the edge of the teeth, I put it back together without the cover and yes it's not going all the way over, no loose spots in indexer and no wear on fork. I am thinking the indexer is a reject or just not checked good. If the new one is the same then I will check it all again.

 

While looking for the parts to fix my transmission I found "new" ones not too expensive, under $400.00 , so I ordered one from the same place I ordered the parts to repair my original. I requested one with no air filter housing (mt11-16) I got the one above that's for the 10.36 and has the old style air filter housing cast into the top. This means I need to get a new speedo cable the rest of the air filter, and the carb tubes. The seller says they will ship me all the parts at no cost, we will see. I installed this new one  so I could get my Dnepr fix, after all its been like 2 weeks since I took the trans out! 

The first gear in the new transmission is much lower than in the one I took out. I am not sure I like this as it takes more effort to start off, I had complained about 1st being to low before and now that I see how the only alternative is I think I like the original one much better! I will be fixing the original soon and will reinstall it. 

I have now fixed the original transmission and installed it. I also regeared a spare final drive that I put solo ring and pinion into, it has much faster gearing now and less torque. I will be trying it out for the next couple of weeks to see if it works well in traffic. I wanted to drive to work at the speed limit (50mph) without reving the motor so high. 

It's no shame to own a "kit" bike.

I had a fealing my Dnepr MT11 was a kit bike when I went into the motor to find what failed and found old nasty sludge with metal shavings in it and like new cylinder bores and new pistons and rings, trans all sludge and new clutch plates, with 42 kilometers on the speedo, new tires, panzer grey paint. It had a strange transmission sound and I thought a bent shaft, turned out to be a roller bearing that had a center that was off center! This bike had gremlins all over in and out, silly little agrivating things that forced me to learn how to work on it. So I can now rip right into any part of this intire machine and fix it.  Most work has been fitting and finishing with some take it out and throw it away going on too. If your not worried about keeping the bike "correct" it makes modifications less painfull. If you love tinkering, this is the rig for you! 

I have heard of others that got kit bikes and have had nothing but normal maintenance wear and tear stuff. I have fun learning new or differant ways of building stuff so its all good! At least the parts are cheap for a motorcycle!

Oil cooler

I got it in my mind that I needed a oil cooler to keep this bike cooler. When I first started riding this bike any distance it got really warm, and hot if not moving. I wasn't thinking about it being still new enough to be breaking in,  it only had 1000 kilometers on it then. I had read a few posts about others having to pull over and let their rigs cool off and I wanted to be able to avoid that situation! So I found a cooler with a fan on eBay and also got a spin on car type oil filter adapter and a oil pump for a turbocharger and made a independently powered and pumped oil cooling system. I wanted system that didn't use the bikes motor oil pump to pump oil through the cooler for 2 reasons; the factory oil pump is by no means a high volume type of pump, it's gears are short it is a direct gear pump not a concentric type with a rotor so its not a high pressure pump. I also wanted it to have the ability to cool oil when the bikes motor was off to help cool down after a very hot shutoff and on hot restarts. I will say that after installing a real oil pressure gauge that the readings I saw made me question the accuracy of that gauge! I know that a motor with roller bearings does not need much oil pressure or volume when compared to a motor with insert, shell or bushing type bearings. Dnepr crankshafts have roller bearings on the end mains and inserts on the large end of the connecting rods and bushing in the small rod ends with press fit piston pins. The camshaft has only roller bearings but has solid lifters that push oil down the pushrod tubes for rocker and valve lubrication not so much for cooling. So it needs some pressure and volume at the crank large ends out and just enough up to the cam to lube the lifters and relying splash to lube roller bearings. My Dnepr had no external oil filter from factory, it used only the internal centerfuge and screens to get the particulate out! With old style motor oil you didn't have the additives that include detergents to help hold in suspension the particulate matter so the paper oil filter element could capture it, this can some what defeat the centerfuge and allow fine light weight material to re-enter the lubrication system and be sent to the crankshaft large ends and cause excessive wear. I soon realized I seemed to be going a little O.C.D. on this as it was snowballing into a 

much larger project than I wanted. 

It does help with oil pressure when it starts to drop below 30lbs I turn on just the pump and it jumps up 15-25lbs. I have only used the fan a couple of times I got stuck in traffic and didn't move for a few minutes, it didn't seem to raise the oil pressure but the IR thermometer said it dropped the oil temp an additional 10 deg.

A kinda surprising thing is at high speeds (60-80kph) it not only raises it to around 50lbs but by the gauge it stabilizes the pressure too. 

I think the best part is the filter, easy to change and its gotta be better than just the centerfuge!

The pump I chose is Noisy, it's whine at idle can be annoying. I will try insulating the mounts on it soon. If I replace it I will find a quieter one.

If I replaced the cooler it would be with one half that size and no fan.

I am thinking I will move it forward and take the fan off, it hangs a bit low where its at and looks bad.

Off roading a 3 wheeled, 800lb 35hp monster

I had taken it in the sand with and without a monkey, in hard pack or wet it did fine, in dry or fluffy you needed to keep speed up. I bet the MT-16 (2WD) would do great! Gravel roads are great! I really think dirt and gravel is what these rigs are designed for, at least mine rides and drives great on them.

A guy I worked with rode the Nate Harrison road up the backside of Mt. Palomar here in SoCal, about 20 miles from me. He said its a nice kinda steep dirt and gravel road with trees, wildlife and all, sounded like a nice sunday drive.

Was really nice scenery..... The road was more trail! Broke the aux battery hold down the first time I got the rig to jump about 2 feet off the ground. I had to dodge rocks the size of  softballs, straddle ruts 2 feet deep, and large rocks that where actually part of the trail. Nice drive...... Anastasiya did very good, I didn't have to pickup lost parts all the way back down the mountain, I have done that far too many times in my life, its habit now. I really want a 2wd one now, I will be checking out if its cheaper to convert or just get a differant bike.